How to Apply Cluster Lashes: The Under-Lash Method, Step by Step
Updated October 2026 · 7 min read
Most guides to applying cluster lashes tell you to glue them on top of your lash line. That's the old salon way, and it's why so many people give up on clusters. The multi-cluster lash was invented to be worn under your natural lashes, and when you apply it that way, everything gets easier: the base disappears, your own lashes hold it, and a set lasts for days. Here is the method, step by step, exactly as Lashify designed it.
Before you start
Get the right lashes and lengths for your eye shape in 60 seconds. The quiz builds your first lash map for you.
Take the lash quiz →What you need
- Gossamer® lashes in your length. As a guide, smaller eyes wear 10–12mm and most other eyes wear 12–14mm. Find your length.
- A bond. Whisper Light® Classic is the one to learn on.
- A sealer. Water Poof™ for fusing, plus Glass Finishing Coat or Night Line® Sealer to finish.
- The Fuse™ Control Wand with a pair of Wandom® covers.
- Pre-Cleanse to prep, and a mirror you can look down into.
The Control Kit® has all of it in one box.
Step 1: Prep
Clean your lashes and lids with Pre-Cleanse and let them dry completely. Skip mascara; your lashes are about to do its job. Keep oil, glycerin, silicones and micellar water away from the lash line. If your lids are oily, tap on Oil Poof®. Prep is the number one reason a set lasts, or doesn't.
Step 2: Bond
Bond goes on your natural lashes, in light layers, with each layer dry before the next. Lashify's Frosting Method is made for this: brush Black Whisper Light through every lash and wait about 30 seconds until it's tacky, then apply Clear Whisper Light 1–2mm from the waterline and brush it upward until it turns clear. Watch the Frosting Method video.
More bond isn't more hold. Thin, dry layers are what make a set last.
Step 3: Place under your lashes
Set your mirror so you look down into it, and rest your elbow on the table to steady your hand. Pick up one Gossamer® by the spine and slide it under your natural lashes, 1–2mm up from the waterline. Start a quarter of the way in from the inner corner, work outward, and place the inner corner last. Most eyes take six Gossamers per eye (five for small eyes, seven for large).
Not sure which length goes where? That's your lash map. Our lash mapping guide shows a map for every eye shape, or Pre-Mapped Gossamer® lashes place every length for you.
Step 4: Fuse
Put a little Water Poof™ inside your Wandom, then open the Fuse™ Control Wand around your natural lashes and the Gossamer® and clamp right on the spine. Fusing presses the Gossamer® and your lashes into one piece. It's the step most people rush and the one that matters most.
Step 5: Seal and wait
About an hour later, add Glass Finishing Coat, or Night Line® Sealer for black coverage. Wait a few hours before you get your lashes wet. Done: a set built this way is made to be worn for days, and clients wear theirs up to 2 weeks.
Wear your first three sets just for the day. Learning placement and fusing is the fastest way to lashes that last.
Quick fixes
| What's happening | The fix |
|---|---|
| Lashes won't stick | Prep again; there's oil or residue on the lashes. Let every bond layer dry. |
| Outer corner lifting | Stop before your last natural lash and fuse right on the spine. |
| Lashes look crooked | Look down into the mirror, not straight ahead, while you place. |
| Outer corners look droopy | Go shorter at the outer corner, or set the outer fibers a little higher. |
| They don't last overnight | Build more thin bond layers, and seal. See the troubleshooting guide. |
Taking them off
Never pull. Coat your Gossamers with Release Lash Remover, wait 25–30 seconds, and gently wipe them away. Because they come off intact, you can clean them and wear them again. How to clean your Gossamers →
Why the under-lash method works
A lash glued on top of the lash line fights your eyelid every time you blink. A Gossamer® sits underneath, where your natural lashes hold it and the base disappears. That idea, the multi-cluster lash worn under the natural lashes, is Lashify's invention, and the method is patented. Read the full story of the original →
Find your perfect set
Questions people ask
How do you apply cluster lashes for beginners?
Prep clean, dry lashes; build thin layers of bond on your natural lashes; place each Gossamer under your lashes 1–2mm from the waterline; fuse with the Fuse Control Wand; then seal. Wear your first three sets just for the day while you learn.
Do cluster lashes go on top or under your lashes?
Gossamer® multi-cluster lashes go under your natural lashes. Your own lashes hold them, the base disappears, and the method is patented by Lashify.
How many cluster lashes do I need per eye?
Most eyes take six Gossamers per eye: five for small eyes and seven for large.
Should bond go on the lash or my natural lashes?
With the Lashify method, bond goes on your natural lashes in thin layers, each one dry before the next.
How long does it take to apply cluster lashes?
Give yourself extra time for your first sets. Once you know your map and have practiced fusing, a set goes on in minutes.
How do I make cluster lashes last longer?
Prep thoroughly, layer bond thinly, fuse right on the spine and seal. With the bond layered the Lashify way, clients wear a set for up to 2 weeks.
Shop the look
Everything you need for your first set.
